Stichbury Designer Clothing - A Technologist Interview

I recently caught up with Lou Stichbury, a fashion designer based in Wellington - NZ. I questioned her about  the technological ways of processing a garment as well as owning and running her own label in the fashion industry. This interview was to especially help me with my personal studies for design projects.
"Teal is the new black!" I interviewed this incredibly talented technologist who replied with amazing answers. I am having a good day so I may as well share these answers with you too for a little insight on the fashion business from a designers perspective! 

Here is a link to the Stichbury website - Otherwise you can find her little Boutique on the Wellington waterfront, up the cable car on in most of the fairs around town/Kapiti Coast/Waiarapa.

Remember to like her Facebook Page! 

Where are you from? What do you do?
"I am from Wellington. My workroom is my own home in Titahi Bay. I am a fashion designer or a so-called ‘artist’. I create vibrant, unique and original women's/men's/girls and maternity wear."
 

How long did it take you to get into this industry?

"I started my label in 2008 and I finished my degree in 2004."

What is the name of your brand/label?

"‘Stichbury’, the label name was obvious, my name fits perfectly – Lou ‘Stichbury’."

How many shops do you have?
"I have one permanent shop on the waterfront, one temporarily up cable car for cruise ship season where there are a lot of tourist attractions there who are willing to purchase kiwi local-made garments to take back home with them."

Do you have an online shop?

"I have a website but by the time I photograph my garment and post it online, they are already sold… So this might be a winter project for me to do an online range for the season."

Is your shop national or international?
"National, but garments sell to people from all over the world – I get a lot of tourists."

Is it better to work from your online shop or an in-store shop?
"A shop at present is what I prefer. It's too time consuming to make the product and keep up with both the website and my shops."

What does fashion mean to you?
"Fashion is a little consuming to society, but I prefer to allow individuals express themselves with my unique pieces, as are we, they are more like walking pieces of art than following the mainstream trends that you would commonly see every day."

How would you define your city's fashion?
"Wellington is known to be the black city, but there are definitely the creative ones amongst the corporate blacks. I set myself a challenge to break my customer’s safety bubble and add a layer of colour with my Stichbury designs."

When did you realize you wanted to become a fashion designer?
"I had a love of dressing my Barbie dolls and creating clothes for them when I was young, but I never intentionally thought of making it into a career. This is because you see the pages of Vogue Magazine which shows that the industry appears as pretty cut-throat! It was just a journey I found myself on after starting my Bachelor of design at Massey University. Illustration and 2D wasn't working for me I didn't see a future in it for me, personally. I escaped to Whanganui and thought I'd give it a go, not with the intention of becoming a designer really. After that I worked for a local designer, ‘Anastasia’s’ in Lower Hutt and my own wears were born and were blossoming into my own unique styles... I sold a lot at markets and then I found my label in several boutiques. Then my designs showed on Kirkcaldie and Stains! This gave me enough courage to open my first shop in island bay in 2008. This is where it all really began for me as a fashion designer."

Describe the general process you go through to design and realize a piece of clothing.
Often I go for long runs and process a design when I find a piece of fabric. I often buy an inspiring fabric based on rich colour, texture or pattern first and then I create a design that works with the fabric and also fits the season and gap in market. 
Or I dream up an idea like my latest ‘liquid leggings’ which consist of various fabrics, colours and textures that are combined to create a pant for all ages, shapes and tastes. 

What are some of your accomplishments as a designer?
"Displaying my fashion wear in a variety of fashion shows, articles, magazines and overall ‘Stichbury’ becoming known as a fashion label. This was a huge and a long process in getting this to the stage and it really does feel rewarding. Also in general it is always refreshing being asked to take part in conventions, displays and to do shows or stock shops nationally and even internationally." 

Who are some of your favourite designers?
"‘Desigdual’ is amazing, I don't follow any designers in the ‘fashion world’ to be honest, but sometimes I see inspiring images to help with concepts on doing a campaign shoot for my new lines coming up and so on." 

Where can readers buy your clothes?

"In my shops, preferably as stated. My website online in winter hopefully can take place – my challenging project of creating a line of fashion wear.   The never ending question of 'do you have an online shop?' the answer being is that there’s not really a saleable range online but more so an overall idea of what I do and what styles I create. Everything I do is so unique, so by the time it is photographed and put online it has been taken to a show and sold."
 
How long have you worked as a designer?

"6 years and counting."

How do you select your models?
"I select my models by uniqueness, not necessarily by experience. Their size, age, not skinny or too young. I prefer mature looking girls to fit my demographic but in saying that, photographers collaborate with me and often have a ‘young girl’ doing it. This is all fine to an extent, I like giving people opportunities I can appreciate it and get some cool imagery out of it." 
 
What are some of your favourite clothing stores/catalogues/websites?
"Etsy is great I love their photography and amazing ideas from all over the world!"

Where do you buy your fabrics and other sewing materials?
"Locally and soon in Thailand! I'm off in two weeks to hunt out buttons, fabrics and trims!" 

What do you believe makes a quality article of clothing?

"A good industrial sewing machine for sure!!! The right fabrics blended with a unique versatile design that you get various looks from and are trans-seasonal. This equals value for money."

Do you consider yourself an artist?
"I think I consider myself an artist more so than a designer in a way! I love art and lived in the art room at school. I wasn't sure what I wanted to translate this love into to make a career out of but I discovered I preferred creating 3D art more than 2D illustrations. I saw that being an artist showed a real challenge to making money etc. but luckily "fell" into doing fashion." 

What matters to you most as a fashion designer?
"Making people happy about finding that unique Stichbury item that they love, treasure and will wear. They can passionately promote one off garments and because they themselves have met me, the maker/designer/seller and have an immediate connection with. They see first-hand the passion, dedication and love that goes into making that piece." 

What's your favourite part about conceptualizing a design?
"Going for a really long run with fabrics and concepts in mind and figuring out how I am going to achieve the look." 

How do you prepare for a fashion shoot or show?
"A lot of long days! Depending on how many items are required I get per theme, then think of fabrics, colours and designs to fit this concept. I look at magazines, online images and brainstorm to come up with a unique idea."

Do you prefer sketching designs or actually constructing them?
"Constructing them as often as possible. I start with an idea in mind and end up doing something different as the designs evolves even more as I get into it."

Tell me about the process of sketching a design. What kind of paper and pencil/pen do you use to bring out texture or movement in your clothes? 
"I don't always sketch a design sometimes it is purely in my head! But I will take my sketch book and a pencil and go down to the beach with my dog, coco, and let the idea come to me. Often a few attempts at drawing a good image to get the design I am trying to depict from my head! I find getting it out on paper harder than thinking about it."

What advice do you have for aspiring fashion designers?
"Just get into it and experiment - practice makes perfect and it takes years to realize your aesthetic as a designer, I am still experimenting and learning.  It keeps it fresh and exciting."

What do you like best about designing clothes?
“I have a fabulous wardrobe and if I have a function, I can create a unique outfit for it! The diversity of what I do keeps it challenging and interesting.”

What do you dislike most about designing clothes?
“That there are so many designs in my head and it is not possible to create them all! The work load my business requires definitely is a lifestyle changer! I wish I had more time with family and friends and even myself!”

How would you define your personal style?
“Artistic, eccentric, casual, sporty and practical. Oh, and colourful!”

How would you define the style your line exemplifies?
“Practical, versatile and stylish for all shapes, sizes and ages.”

What are some of your fashion goals?
“Get stockist’s worldwide and work from home in my lifestyle block in the country doing what I love! I am really a very down to earth kiwi girl who would like to just to continue create unique pieces.”
Where do you get your inspiration?
“Mostly from my head, customers input, images from various mediums.” 
What other experience do you have in the fashion industry (stylist, retail, marketing, etc.)?
“Fashion buying, marketing, retail, visual merchandising, managing, photography, styling, website building and managing, machinist...”

What are your favourite colours to work with and why?
“Teal! Besides it being the most beautiful colour, it can be combined with any other contrasting colour and it works! Teal is the new black!”

What are your favourite fabrics to work with and why?

“Merinos and cotton viscose.  You can make so many different designs with them and they feel divine when combined into one garment!

What are your favourite patterns [prints] to work with and why?

“Anything vibrant and vivid! I love colour!”

Where can readers find out more about you and your work?
"come into my store and meet me." :)

What skills are important for a successful career in fashion design? 
"A versatile skill set and the ability to manage all facets and able to adapt quickly.  dedication, drive and passion."

What are your qualifications as a fashion designer? 
I have a bachelor of fashion design.  I don't think a qualification says everything a person is capable of doing and I don't think it limits someones ability to do what I am doing with or without.  You just require the drive and passion and artistic skill to do all facets."  
Is your computer literate in relation to fashion design? Would you be able to use software to produce designs? 
"No I'm old school.  As I state, I don't follow all fashion forward ideals in society.  I am a bit of a rebel I guess, I just do it my way."

In what general area of design do you work or wish to work? 
"Running a fashion label requires all areas to be covered! I love the creation and design process."
How do you stay up to date with fashion? 
"By creating new looks! don't follow the mainstream trends, invent your own interpretation."
What skills are important for a successful career in fashion design?
"Perseverance, people skills, patience, self belief, stick-ability, passion, drive, ambition and a goal!" 

"Thanks hunnybun!!!"